Introduction
A common question we get asked at Marshall Grain is: “When should I prune my roses” Before we reveal the answer, rose lovers should also understand the why and how of pruning them.
Familiarizing yourself with these basics will help you cultivate vibrant, flourishing bushes that look their best all year long. So we’ve put together this comprehensive that covers everything you need to know about rose pruning, including the unique challenges posed by our North Texas climate.
It might seem a little intimidating at first, but these gorgeous plants actually love a good trim.
Deadheading vs. Pruning
While both deadheading and pruning involve cutting parts of the rose bush, they serve different purposes and are performed differently.
Deadheading is done to encourage continuous blooming and maintain a tidy appearance. Pruning involves more substantial cutting, including removal of entire canes and significant shortening of others. Keep reading to learn more about each process.
Why Prune Roses?
Pruning is a vital aspect of rose care that serves multiple purposes:
Promotes healthy growth: Regular pruning encourages new growth and helps maintain the plant's vigor.
Improves air circulation: Removing crowded stems reduces the risk of fungal diseases. This can be important in North Texas as our climate is more humid, which can promote fungal growth, so be sure your pruning technique allows for good air circulation.
Enhances bloom quality: Proper pruning can lead to larger, more abundant flowers.
Controls size and shape: Pruning helps manage the plant's size and creates an attractive form.
Proper pruning can also help roses better withstand drought periods.
Remove dead or diseased wood: This prevents the spread of diseases and improves the plant's overall health.
When to Prune Roses in Dallas-Fort Worth
Major pruning is best done in early spring, just before new growth begins. For DFW gardeners, this is usually between late February and early March.
Due to the usually mild winters we experience in the DFW area, there are often years when roses never go dormant and so new growth is continuous. However, just in case a cold snap does occur, you should avoid late-season pruning that might stimulate tender new growth.
Pro Tip: Expert gardeners may want to watch for buds swelling as the plant emerges from dormancy and prune them as soon as this happens.
The Easier Way
Traditional advice says to prune on February 14th (Valentine's Day). It’ a convenient date to remember and, although the optimal date can shift from year to year, it’s a pretty safe date to work with.
Spring is the only time you should attempt major pruning. The rest of the growing season (summer through fall), should be limited to lightly trimming and deadheading as needed to maintain the plant's shape and encourage continuous blooming.
How to Prune Roses: A Step-by-Step Guide
Tools You'll Need:
Sharp, clean bypass pruners
Loppers for thicker canes
Garden gloves (preferably with extended sleeves for protection)
Pruning sealer (optional)
The 45 Degree Rule
Whether pruning or dead heading, the 45 Degree Rule applies: Always make cuts just above a healthy bud, angling the cut away from the bud at a 45-degree angle (see illustration).
Spring Pruning Steps:
1. Remove dead or diseased wood: Start by cutting out any dead, damaged or diseased canes.
2. Thin out the center: Remove any canes growing toward the center of the bush to improve air circulation.
3. Cut back remaining canes: For hybrid tea roses and floribunda varieties, cut the healthy canes back by about one-third to one-half their length. For shrub roses, you may only need to remove the top quarter.
4. Prune to outward-facing buds: This encourages outward growth and helps maintain an open center.
5. Remove thin, weak growth: Any stems thinner than a pencil should be removed to promote stronger growth.
6. Seal cuts (optional): Some gardeners prefer to seal large cuts with pruning sealer to prevent rose borers, although this isn't necessary.
Pruning Different Types of Roses
Some roses flower repeatedly throughout the growing season while others bloom only once in the spring. These and other growing differences have an effect on your pruning and deadheading practices, so be sure to follow the directions for the type of rose you have.
Hybrid Tea and Floribunda Roses
These roses benefit from more severe pruning. Cut them back in early spring to a height of about 18 to 24 inches tall, leaving 3 to 5 strong canes.
Shrub and Landscape Roses:
These hardy roses, like the popular Knock-Out varieties, require less intensive pruning. You can cut them back by about one-third to one-half their height in late winter.
Climbing Roses Need Different Treatment:
Climbing rose bushes should not be pruned for two or three years from planting. This allows them to form long arching canes. Not doing so will cause you much frustration in trying to train them on their trellis or other support system. Also, they should never be heavily pruned. Only remove dead or very old canes in early spring. Tie the remaining canes to their support structure. Prune side shoots to about 3 to 6 inches in length.
Single blooming climbing roses should be pruned right after they have bloomed. At that time you can then remove about one-quarter of the old wood to help shape or train the bush.
Repeat flowering climbing roses should be deadheaded often to encourage new blooms. These varieties can be shaped and fastened to a trellis either in late winter or early spring.
When and How to Deadhead Your Roses
Except as noted above, deadheading in DFW can be done throughout the growing season, as flowers fade.
Many people cut off spent blooms just above the first set of leaves, which is said to make the blooms last longer. However, if you prefer to grow longer stems for cut flowers, you should cut the stem just above the first set of five leaflets on the rose cane, as this is where new growth will sprout. This is the ideal spot to cut as it provides a strong point for new growth to emerge and support longer stems.
Growing Rose Hips
Many North Texas rose lovers like to allow their plants to form hips, which are edible and often used to make an herbal tea. If you want your roses to form hips, DFW residents should stop any deadheading or other pruning in early September. Allowing them to form hips helps them prepare for winter dormancy.
Common Rose Pruning Mistakes to Avoid
Pruning at the wrong time: In Dallas-Fort Worth, avoid heavy pruning in late fall or early winter, as this can stimulate growth that may be damaged by cold snaps.
Cutting too close or too far from the bud: Make cuts about 1/4 inch above an outward-facing bud at a 45-degree angle.
Leaving stubs: These can die back and potentially introduce disease. Always cut just above close to a bud or intersection.
Over-pruning: While roses benefit from pruning, removing too much can stress the plant. Generally, don't remove more than one-third to one-half of the healthy growth.
Using dull or dirty tools: Always use sharp, clean pruning tools to make clean cuts and prevent the spread of diseases.
Other Rose Maintenance Tips
Soil considerations: Roses prefer a slightly-acidic soil while many parts of North Texas have alkaline soil. This disparity can affect rose health. You can compensate for it by applying a balanced rose fertilizer about two weeks after pruning to support new growth, then again about every 4 weeks.
Mulching: Add a 2 to 3 inch layer of organic mulch around the base of the plant. Always keep it away from the base of the plant to prevent moisture-related issues.
Watering: Ensure consistent moisture, especially as new growth emerges. Deep, infrequent watering is preferable to frequent shallow watering.
Pest and disease monitoring: Regularly inspect your roses for signs of pests or diseases, which can be more prevalent in the warm, humid North Texas climate.
Continued care: Throughout the growing season, continue deadheading and light pruning as needed to maintain the plant's shape and health.
A Word About Rose Rosette Disease
Rose Rosette Disease (RRD) continues to be a significant concern for rose enthusiasts in the Dallas-Fort Worth area and across North Texas. This section will provide essential information about RRD, its symptoms, and how to manage it in your garden.
What is Rose Rosette Disease?
Rose Rosette Disease is a viral infection that affects all roses. There are no rose varieties that are immune. It caused by the Rose Rosette Virus (RRV) and is spread by a microscopic mite called Phyllocoptes fructiphilus. The disease was first observed in wild roses east of the Rocky Mountains over 80 years ago but became a widespread threat in North Texas around 2010.
It's not possible to cure Rose Rosette Disease. Once the plant is infected, it will die slowly over a period of months or years.
Recognizing Rose Rosette Disease
Symptoms of RRD can vary but typically include:
"Witches' brooms" - clusters of small shoots forming a broom-like appearance
Excessive thorniness on stems
Thickened, rubbery stems that don't mature properly
Distorted or discolored buds that fail to open
Red leaf mottling that persists as leaves mature
Stunted growth and eventual dieback of the plant
Responding to Rose Rosette Disease
Continuously monitor all your roses for symptoms. (Be aware that plants can be infected for without displaying symptoms.)
If you suspect your roses have RRD:
1. Confirm the diagnosis: Take photos and consult with your local nursery or extension office for verification.
2. Remove infected plants: Once confirmed, remove the entire plant, including the roots. Place the plant in a sealed plastic bag before digging it up to prevent mite spread.
3. Dispose properly: Put the bagged plant in the trash. Do not compost or use city compost carts.
4. Wait before replanting: If you choose to replant roses, wait at least a month and consider planting in a different location.
Prevention and Management
Unfortunately, there is no cure for RRD. However, you can take steps to reduce the risk:
1. Space roses apart: Plant roses 4 to 6 feet apart to reduce mite transmission. Don't allow your roses to over lap with each other. Allow at least 1 to 2 feet of space in between them.
2. Use companion plants: Intersperse roses with perennials or ornamental grasses to create barriers against wind-borne mites.
3. Regular inspections: Monitor your roses frequently for early signs of infection.
4. Prune heavily in winter: This can help remove overwintering mites.
5. Maintain plant health: Well-nourished plants may be more resistant to infection.
6. Consider alternatives: In heavily affected areas, consider planting resistant perennials or dwarf crape myrtles instead of roses.
While Rose Rosette Disease poses a significant challenge to rose growers in North Texas, staying informed and vigilant can help protect your garden. By understanding the disease and taking prompt action when necessary, you can continue to enjoy roses in your landscape despite this threat.
Get Our Rose Rosette Fact Sheet
Conclusion
Pruning your roses annually and lovingly caring for them through the growing seasons will keep them looking and performing at their best to give you maximum enjoyment.
Remember, pruning is both a science and an art — don't be afraid to experiment and learn from your roses as you go. With practice and observation, you'll develop the skills to keep your roses blooming beautifully year after year.